As night begins to fall in Richmond, British Columbia, my stomach begins to call. After flying in from Toronto, I land in the small suburb and check into my hotel, a stone’s throw away from Aberdeen Centre, Richmond’s “shoppertainment” venue offering retail shopping, dining, and entertainment. Perfect, I think, as hangry hour draws close. En route to the mall, I notice street signs written in Chinese as the faint buzz of traffic permeates my evening walk. As I approach the centre, I’m struck initially by its size at 380,000 square feet. But when I enter, I’m taken much more by its “Asianness.” It feels like instead of flying into Vancouver, I’ve flown into Asia.

The mall’s 160 stores include Japanese department store Oomomo (formerly Daiso) and a large number of Asian boutiques and specialty stores including Great Mountain Ginseng, Uncle Tetsu, Taiwan Kwong Leung Hin Dried Food, Giordano, ARTBOX, and OSIM. You can find trendy Korean cosmetics and skincare products here, along with Japanese beauty stores and a dizzying array of all things Asian.

It is, for all intents and purposes, the land of “kawaii,” an often used Japanese word which means cute. Hello Kitty abounds, stuffed animals greet you at every turn and K-pop rules the sound systems here. I try not to be distracted since I came here to fill my belly, and I’m in luck with eight full-service restaurants and an 800-seat food court filled with sushi, Korean BBQ and all the Asian eats you can dream of.

This isn’t the only Asian-centric mall in Richmond. This Vancouver suburb, which houses Vancouver’s International Airport, has 12 large Asian-themed malls. The Golden Village is a commercial district in Richmond with a high concentration of Asian-themed shopping malls. To outsiders, this might seem surprising. But to locals, these commercial spaces are in response to its massive Asian population.

Richmond is considered North America's most Asian city, with 74 percent of its population being Asian, 54 percent of whom are of Chinese descent, according to Statistics Canada. In this small city of roughly 50-square-miles, more than half the restaurants are Asian.

“I had no idea about Canada, I had no idea about Richmond. When my future husband said we’re going to Vancouver, I checked the map, I saw oh, it’s close to Japan. Then when we arrived I thought, did we arrive in another place in Asia?!,” says Mieko, a lovely Japanese volunteer at Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site, where many of the buildings that date back to 1885 at the Steveston Heritage Site tell the stories of Asian immigrants who worked on the ships and/or at the Britannia Cannery.

Mieko (Britannia policy prevents volunteers from divulging their last name) is one of many who immigrated to Richmond in the 1980s and ‘90s. The first wave of Asian migrants came by way of Chinese labourers to work on the trans-Canada railway in the 1880s. Japanese Canadians arrived around the time that the British Cannery opened in 1882 at the Britannia Shipyards.

"Steveston’s history reflects the earlier story of Asian migration to Richmond, with Chinese and Japanese communities playing pivotal roles in its development,” said Steveston Heritage Sites development coordinator Mimi Horita. “Chinese emigrants were hired as labourers, essential to the growth of the fishing and canning industries in the late 19th and 20th centuries, laying the foundation for Richmond’s vibrant multicultural identity. The legacy of these earlier settlers is interwoven with the more recent migration from Hong Kong and other Asian communities, shaping the city’s unique blend of cultural traditions, heritage, and cuisine."

The most significant wave of Chinese immigration was indeed during the mid-1980s after China and the United Kingdom announced the end of British rule, returning Hong Kong to China in 1997. After 156 years of British rule, many Hong Kongers feared their rights and freedoms might be compromised once the Chinese Communist Party took over. This triggered mass migration to Vancouver.

At the same time, governments pushed through legislation such as the 1986’s Investment Canada Act to entice wealthy Asians. Between 1981 and 2011, Statistics Canada figures show the ethnic Chinese population grew by almost 80,000 people, with the first wave from Hong Kong and Taiwan, followed more recently by those from Mainland China. Today, at least a fifth of Metro Vancouver’s population identifies as Chinese—more than any other city in North America.

Naturally, with such a large Asian population, Richmond has become home away from home for these residents and it shows. One can find almost anything they would from Asian countries, signs are often in Asian dialects at shopping malls or even on streets, and of course, there’s no shortage of Asian food here.

Richmond has risen to international foodie fame by boasting more than 600 restaurants, 400 of which are Asian. The city has gained popularity for its Dumpling Trail and highly touted Richmond Night Market, the latter of which provides a fun-filled night of all things deep-fried and kawaii.

“There’s just so much Asian food here! The scene is busy and competitive—which keeps the standards very high,” said Alexandra Gill, the former food critic for The Globe and Mail, who now runs Asian food tours in Richmond. “Traditional Cantonese cuisine is what Richmond is best known for, and it really is as good as they say. I was recently in Hong Kong and had some terrible dim sum. You don’t often get terrible dim sum in Richmond. Ours is just as good, if not better.”

Gill also notes that one her favourite things to do in Richmond is to go for Alaskan King Crab. “You can get it at any decent Cantonese seafood restaurant. It’s a local specialty that is prepared three ways: steamed legs, fried knuckles and/or noodles or rice tossed with the leftover juices from the legs. It’s a feast! So, go with a big group of people (four min).”

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Food is always at the centre of Lunar celebrations around the world and Richmond is no different. On Lunar New Year’s day, family members gather to give or receive red envelopes (lai see) containing small amounts of money and mark the happy occasion with sumptuous feasts. Traditionally, the Chinese calendar’s lunar celebrations run until the 15th day after the start of the New Year.

If you happen to be lucky enough to celebrate the new year in North America’s most Asian city, here are some dining and activity recommendations:

Where to Eat

Sea Harbour Restaurant

Winning two awards at this year’s Chinese Restaurant Awards, this resaturant hits the dim sum spot, with notably delicious har gow (shrimp dumplings, juicy and plump with big pieces of shrimp in the filling).

The Fish Man

Always bustling according to regulars, this is your seafood delight spot. Gill recommends the cabbage hot pot, a standout signature dish in her opinion. And don’t miss out on the Dungeness crab with black bean and kabocha squash.

Memory Corner

A cozy Taiwanese spot known for its crispy popcorn chicken, lamb hot pot, and comforting braised pork rice, this popular restaurant delivers bold flavours and an old-school street food vibe with the decor to match. You'll love the authentic tastes (inspired by the owner's grandparents) and nostalgic atmosphere.

What to Do/See

Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site

This picturesque site features a collection of historic buildings representing Steveston's canning, fishing, and boat building heritage. It divulges a lot of history behind Asian migration and the conditions faced upon arrival.

Richmond Night Market

This fun market is the largest night market in North America and has over 70 food stalls where you can sample crab meat noodles, BBQ squid, ramen, Japanese poutine, sushi and more! Check the website for dates of operation.

Dumpling Trail

While this isn’t a literal trail of dumplings, this guide shows you the restaurants that steam, fry, and boil up some of the most delectable dumplings this side of the Pacific.

Parker Place Mall

Established in 1993, Parker Place Mall has become a shopping landmark in downtown Richmond. Parker Place Mall continues to present a unique experience of authentic Asian lifestyle in North America and boasts a food court that showcases a diversity of Asian food offerings.