The staggeringly beautiful highlands of Cape Breton are full of waterfalls, lakes, and quarries that beg to be dived into and floated upon. Here’s how to dip your toes in pristine wild swimming spots while enjoying gorgeous restaurants and accommodations on a long weekend road trip around the Cabot Trail.

FRIDAY: START IN MARGAREE

Afternoon: Start your weekend strong with a short 900m hike through the woods to Egypt Falls. Clamber up the rocks to the upper falls to soak in a glorious, cool pool. These are the biggest falls in Cape Breton that you can access with such a short hike (it’s a bit steep, but there are steps and guide ropes at the hardest parts).

Evening: Check in to Ridge on the Chimney’s architecturally stunning cottages overlooking the golden sands of Chimney Corner Beach, equipped with the bougiest of everything and wood-fired hot tubs perfect for watching the sunset over the ocean. Dine at Woodroad, an exceptional 25-seat, seven-course dining experience featuring local, seasonal, and foraged ingredients.

SATURDAY: CHILL AROUND CHETICAMP

Morning: Grab a breakfast sandwich and excellent coffee at the bright, new Café Les Suêtes to fuel up for another short hike (2.6km there and back) to Gypsum Mine Quarry, where the flooded quarry pit sparkles from the stark white minerals beneath the water. Surrounded by trees, a short climb up a cliffside (aided by a rope) delivers incredible views and a perfect selfie spot.

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Afternoon: Reward yourself with a crab and lobster roll at the posh French-inspired L'abri Café in Cheticamp, accompanied by a refreshing Aperol spritz or a glass of sparkling Nova Scotia wine. Explore some of the adorable businesses in Cheticamp, such as Freya and Thor folk art gallery and curated boutique, Proud to be Lola's Hookers traditional rug hooking, and gift/ vintage/ coffee shop Marguerite boutique et provisions.

Evening: Take a drive to Inverness to walk the 1.5km sandy beach known for its proliferation of sea glass, then dine at The Annex where you can get the best seafood chowder, fat local oysters, and fabulous cocktails.

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SUNDAY: GO NORTH

Morning: Stop at Aucoin Bakery in Petit Étang for Acadian-style baked goods and meat pies to gorge on in the car as you head up the Cabot Trail, taking in epic vistas as you ascend the highlands and the tiny fishing communities when you’re back at sea level. You’ll pass the entrance to the Skyline Trail, a 2-3 hour loop that takes you to a dramatic headland boardwalk (this is the view you always see in the Nova Scotia tourism ads)–it’s well with your time but can be brutally busy in the summer. Drive on to South Harbour Beach in Dingwall, which is pretty much deserted year-round, for an ocean dip.

Afternoon: For late lunch, snag a picnic table next to the historic lighthouse and chow down on fried clams and fries or a locally caught crab or lobster sandwich on sliced white bread at The Chowder House in Neil’s Harbour. Head to close-by Black Brook Beach to frolic in the waves and admire the small waterfall that tumbles down onto the sands.

Evening: Check into one of the dreamy rooms above Salty Rose's & the Periwinkle Café for the night, and grab a few of their delicious baked goods or a sandwich to sustain you later. If you have the energy, drive up to historic Keltic Lodge to hike along the clifftops at Middle Head, a 3.8km moderately challenging route along the headland for glorious golden hour views.

MONDAY: TO BADDECK

Morning: Start your day with great coffee and a bowl of housemade orange-almond granola (or breakfast sandwich with crab or lobster, you’re in Cape Breton, so why not!) at The Periwinkle Café before starting your drive towards the pretty village of Baddeck. Along the way, be sure to stop at the interesting stores along the way: Leatherworks by Jolene sells butter-soft purses and accessories, Wildfire Pottery has seriously cool ceramics, and you must grab something delicious at Cabotto Chocolates.

Afternoon: In Baddeck, grab lunch at Highwheeler Cafe & Bakery, where they roast their own coffee and every delicious morsel on the menu is baked or made in-house. Be sure to grab a bag of oatcakes to go. Your final stop is magnificent Gairloch Mountain Falls, where a kilometre hike through lush woodlands (a little challenging in spots, and you have to hop across a few streams) reveals an excellent swimming hole.

And so ends your Cape Breton adventure. It's a shame few people visit this wild and beautiful destination even just once!