UNEXPECTED WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS

My head is on a swivel as I try to take it all in—humpback whales breach and spout in every direction, stretching as far as the eye can see. Even Pacific white-sided dolphins dart through the waves, adding to the party. The only sounds are the echoing blows of whales and the rhythmic click of camera shutters, yet the energy on the boat is electric. We drift with the current in the Johnstone Strait, captivated.

The best part? This is just a pit stop—not even the main attraction. It's September in the southern Great Bear Rainforest, and we're on a journey to find grizzly bears as they fish for salmon in the nearby rivers and streams.

One particular morning, I sat patiently along a riverbank cloaked under the forest canopy for hours, hoping for a bear to swim past. Just as we were growing restless and considering leaving, a massive male grizzly emerged upstream from the dense forest. Its coat shimmered with water droplets as it moved toward us. But suddenly, it froze, spooked, and darted back into the trees. Confused, we quickly realized why—a female grizzly and her cub came barreling around the bend, chasing salmon through the shallows.

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After glancing in our direction and sniffing us out, the mother bear deemed us no threat. She left her cub nearby and continued fishing, disappearing and then reemerging moments later with a thrashing salmon in her jaws. We sat riveted, front row, for hours as the mother taught her little one how to survive. I'll always remember the strength and power in her movements, the cub's curious gaze and clumsiness and the intimate beauty of the moment.

THE WONDER OF THE BC COAST

Fall on the west coast of British Columbia is a photographer's dream. Mist-cloaked fjords weave through towering cedar and spruce forests, the light and weather starts to become more dramatic and the wildlife is active as they prepare for the long winter ahead. Even though the leaves are turning yellow, the days are getting shorter and salmon carcasses line the river banks, everything strangely feels alive. Beyond the awe of the landscape lies a deeper story of resilience and stewardship, one that I first encountered in 2020 when I joined a documentary project in the heart of Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw territory.

UNDERSTANDING THE GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST

You've likely heard of the "Great Bear Rainforest" before and like myself, didn't quite know where exactly it was and what it encompassed. The term was introduced as part of conservation efforts and spans 6.4 million hectares along British Columbia's central and northern coast, making it one of the largest intact temperate rainforests in the world. The Great Bear Rainforest stretches from Quadra Island near Campbell River in the south to the Alaska Panhandle border in the north.

For thousands of years, Indigenous communities have been the stewards of this land (home to 26 First Nations), and in 2016 their voices joined forces with environmentalists and governments to champion its protection. This resulted in the Great Bear Rainforest Land Use Order—the culmination of over 20 years of negotiation that not only protected 85% of the forest from industrial logging but also recognized Indigenous rights to manage their traditional territories through shared decision-making processes.

The Great Bear Rainforest (aka the GBR) is renowned for its biodiversity - there's no other place quite like it. You can find everything from coastal (sea) wolves, spirit bears (also known as Kermode bears—a rare subspecies of black bear where approximately one in ten bears carries a recessive gene that gives them a striking cream-coloured coat), sea lions and salmon to bald eagles, otters, dolphins, orcas and massive 1,000+ year old trees. If you're lucky enough, you could even see them all in a single day. The spirit bears are particularly significant to the Gitga'at and Kitasoo/Xai'xais First Nations who have protected these bears for millennia and now lead specialized ecotours to see them in their territories around Hartley Bay and Klemtu.

One of the most hauntingly beautiful moments I've experienced was hearing the iconic howl of a nearby sea wolf echoing through the forest late at night while I was in my tent under a nearly full moon. On another occasion, we spotted one silently walking along the rocky coastline, its piercing eyes meeting mine for a fleeting second before it vanished as quickly as it appeared.

INDIGENOUS STEWARDSHIP IN ACTION

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Before my first visit, I had seen countless photos and heard stories about the Great Bear Rainforest, and every one of them lived up to the hype. My introduction to this place came in the fall of 2020 when I joined a short film project based in Hada (Bond Sound). The documentary focused on the inspiring work that K'odi Nelson and Mike Willie are doing within Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw territory. With many towns and villages in the area being so remote, access to jobs and resources is limited, often forcing youth and adults to leave their communities.

Through initiatives like Sea Wolf Adventures, started by Mike, and Nawalak, led by K'odi, they are creating opportunities to help their people remain in the territory—learning and sharing their history, speaking the language, and keeping the culture thriving. If you have nine minutes to spare, I highly recommend watching this film to learn more in depth about their incredible work and personal stories.

Since that trip, I've returned year after year, collaborating with Mike and K'odi on various projects and co-hosting photography workshops to help spread awareness and contribute to their missions. The biggest lesson I've learned in this region is patience. Whether it's unpredictable weather, challenging conditions, or the wildlife itself, you're constantly reminded to slow down and be hyper-aware of your surroundings. After reflecting on this, it's a lesson I've come to appreciate far more than I was initially aware of.

ETHICAL WILDLIFE VIEWING

For many, the main draw here is the wildlife, specifically grizzly bears. The result of careful management of human behaviour has allowed for incredible opportunities to observe these wild animals behaving naturally in their own habitat. Being guided for these encounters is crucial in my opinion. Specifically in the south, Mike and other guides have spent many years building relationships and trust with these bears, most of them since they were cubs and beyond. Everything is carefully managed to ensure low-impact, safe wildlife viewing. This includes small group sizes, a strict no-food policy, and most importantly a deep respect for the animals. Since we pose neither a threat nor a source of food, the bears often ignore us, going about their hunting routine undisturbed.

A PLACE THAT STAYS WITH YOU

Locations like the Great Bear Rainforest carve out a special place in your heart. The people, animals, and rugged coastal ecosystems leave an impact on those lucky enough to visit. As I plan my next adventure to this special place, I find myself hoping that more people will have the opportunity to experience its charm—whether through travel, learning about its history, or supporting its conservation. This isn't just a destination; it's a testament to resilience and a powerful reminder of what's at stake. Whether you're a photographer, a wildlife enthusiast, or someone seeking a deeper connection to nature, this part of the country offers a transformative experience.

TIPS FOR YOUR GBR ADVENTURE

For those planning a trip to the Great Bear Rainforest, preparation is key. Here are a few tips to make the most of your time no matter which part you visit:

• How to visit the GBR: The British Columbia tourism board has a great landing page full of resources and trip ideas that you can find here.
  
• Pack for the Elements: The rainforest lives up to its name, so waterproof gear is a must. Embrace the rain; it's what brings the landscape to life.
  
• Respect Wildlife: Always keep a respectful distance from animals and adhere to ethical photography practices. Remember, you're a guest in their home, and their safety and well-being come first. Wildlife encounters can be unpredictable—and may not happen at all—so approach the experience with patience and an open mind. Instead of focusing on what you hope to see, appreciate the beauty of what's around you.
  
• Go on a guided tour: Unless you have your own boat, having a guide is crucial in order to get to a lot of the best spots, especially the hard to reach deep inlets and fjords. Keep in mind that a lot of areas in the north require you to have permits or local guides. Opt for tour operators and experiences that support conservation and local communities.
  
• Timing: Spring and summer is great for seeing bear cubs and low tide shoreline viewing. Fall (late August to October) is ideal for grizzlies hunting salmon in the rivers during the spawn. There are also large groups of migrating humpback whales in September. Give yourself plenty of time, the more time spent here, the more chances you will have to encounter wildlife and prime weather windows.